It seems like everything Telfar Clemens does causes quite the commotion. Whether unboxing spoils from his bag security program or praising the cleverly-named "Corned Beef" color way, the internet always has an opinion about his Brooklyn-based brand. Currently, social media is ablaze with commentary on one of Telfar's recent offerings.
The new Round Telfar Circle Bag - originally teased via fashion stylist, consultant and all around it girl Amanda Murray's Instagram stories in January - made its debut following the immersive runway show at New York Fashion Week. And while the bag is stunning, and a departure from Telfar's more minimal, quadrilateral silhouette, the focus of the Twitter discourse was the price point: $567.
Some Twitter users questioned its accessibility, leading to several hot takes and a trending Telfar hashtag. One user said, "A $567 faux leather bag is not accessibility lol. Like the bags are beautiful, I own telfar bags, but we don't have to do this." Twitter users noted that this price was for a specific style: "Again, you've missed the point. The SHOPPING bag has the SAME, ORIGINAL price. Which is and will remain accessible and affordable. They never said that would be the only bag and price point they'd release. Can't fault them for doing something different."
To be clear, Telfar prices are not increasing. With the recent drop of the aforementioned "Corned Beef" color-way, Telfar has assured customers that the shopping bag will remain at the same price point: $150 for a small, $202 for medium, and $257 for large. However, the new style - one that requires more in terms of production due to its circular cutout shape - will have a comparatively higher cost.
Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Telfar's brand dossier can go toe-to-toe with just about any storied European house or American legacy brand. He's shown in Paris, outfitted an entire Olympic team, dressed a Met Gala attendee, collaborated with some of the most recognizable mass brands (from Ugg to White Castle), and even landed on Oprah's acclaimed "Favorite Things" list. So, why is the price of his bag drawing so much criticism?
Consumers can always buy into a luxury brand across several different tiers. Take Louis Vuitton, for example. For an accessible entry into the brand, you can shop for small leather goods, fragrances, and sunglasses at $280 to $1,700. If you choose to opt into the LVMH-owned brand via its Ready-To-Wear tier, prices range from $345 for a pair of monogrammed bikini bottoms to a navy blue cashmere structured coat retailing at $6,100, and they go up from there.
The same logic applies to Telfar. As a fully-realized brand that offers a wide range of products, the Telfar beanie is priced at $55, with the logo belts retailing for $100. To purchase the brand's highly coveted logo boot - which uses the same Telfar logo motif as the circle bag style in question - you will spend about $800. The clothing ranges from $65 for a graphic t-shirt to upwards of $1,380 for a hybrid hoodie/puffer coat. The jean styles that Telfar is launching on Thursday, Mar. 4, retail for $225 and $251.
Of course, the shopping bag is an anomaly. Though a viral success, it has remained at an entry-level price point for the brand. As many have mentioned, that approach is incomparable within the luxury space Telfar occupies. By pricing the shopping bag at the current cost - and promising not to increase it even after a Beyoncé placement - Telfar is offering up an accessible "it" bag in a way the market has never seen before. But that doesn't mean his other items must follow the same rubric. In fact, they never have.
What's more, Telfar's committing to an accessible price point for the shopping bag at a time when real price increases have become par for the course in the luxury space. Just this week, Louis Vuitton announced that it's raising prices "in response to increased manufacturing costs and global inflation," joining other luxury houses like Hermes and Chanel, that have gradually hiked prices since the start of the pandemic. While there certainly has been pushback from consumers and fans, the criticism pales in comparison to what Telfar receives, and his circle bag launch doesn't even constitute a true price increase.
Others argue that Telfar shouldn't charge $567 for the circle bag because it's constructed from vegan leather. But Stella McCartney has held a corner on the vegan leather market for quite some time, selling vegan leather bags for up to $1,100 with few angry tweets directed her way, if any at all.
Prada's signature Nylon bag - made out of, you guessed it, nylon - retails at a higher price point than the Round Telfar Circle Bag. Yet that item enjoyed "It bag" status last season, showing up on the arms of all the fashion it girls from Dua Lipa to Bella Hadid.
The conversation around Telfar's circle bag price point is loaded because it poses the dangerous misconception that Black luxury brands can't grow and scale. Clemens is running a business, one that is fully entitled to offer items at different tiers and to sell vegan leather bags at a price that is competitive in the market.
And while other luxury brands participate in actual price increases, Telfar should be praised for committing to keeping the same price point for the shopping bag. Clemens has always been about facilitating community and thinking of his customer base, like offering the bag security program and accepting alternative forms of payment like Afterpay and Klarna. And while, typically the community shows up for him - centering the bag in the social media zeitgeist, taking pride in wearing them and collecting each color - in this case, the backlash feels unfair.
I want us to challenge the ways we approach Black design talent, allowing them the same space as any other luxury brand. Support them. Clap for them. And gain a fuller understanding of the market before criticizing.
It appears that Telfar shoppers agree. The circle bag sold out immediately.